DIY pintxo routes 2016
San Sebastian Donostia Spain
Guide to eating pintxos
If you are looking for a quiet or romantic sit-down meal, then head for one of the restaurants and order a la carte or go for one of the taster menus.
With three of the six Michelin star restaurants in Spain located in San Sebastian, the town boats the most concentrated collection of M stars in the world after Kyoto in Japan. If you are wanting to indulge in that supreme experience then pack your wallet and head for either Arzak or Martin Berasategui or Mugaritz.
But it seems a pity to come all the way to San Sebastian and not dive straight into Pintxos bar crawling, or as it is known locally “txikiteo” (pronounced “cheeky-tay-oh”)
Txikiteo involves moving from bar to bar, having a couple of pintxos at each venue and a glass of wine, cider or pint of beer. It is a fast and furious experience, as you wrestle with your neighbours to try to get a place at the bar. And in most bars, don’t expect a seat.
When to Go
The best time of year for a San Sebastian pintxos crawl is in the spring and summer. The weather can be pleasant and sunny as early in the year as April. However, if you want to enjoy the beach and try a little surfing (surf boards can be rented at many of the hostels and pensions in San Sebastian) you might want to go between June and September.
There are many festivals throughout the year, and you may want to make your trip coincide with one of them.
Semana Grande is a week of festivities that takes place around August 15. There are many shows and events to take part in, but one of the highlights is an international fireworks competition over the Playa de la Concha.
There is also an annual Jazz festival (Jazzaldia) in late July, and an international film festival in late September. San Sebastian Day (or the Tamborrada) is on January 20.
Be sure to book accommodation well in advance for any of these festivals.
Do your research
Usually pintxos bars have a few specials they are famous for in-house.
Some of the pintxo are award winners from several yearly competitions held locally.
Plan ahead so that you are sure to experience all the best that is available.
But don’t over research... a bit of spontaneity is part of the fun!
If you’re in doubt ask the waiters...usually they are more than happy to point out the specials of the day.
Go to Busy Bars
A bar which doesn’t sell good quality won’t last. The locals won’t go and any bar will struggle to live off exclusively tourist trade. That means that the best bars are usually the ones that are the fullest. So don’t be put off, dive into the crowd and lean over people to grab a pintxo off the bar or holler your order over the crowd. You´ll be rewarded by what comes.
Start Early
To avoid massive queues, try to get to your favourite spots soon after opening : usually 10h00 or 11h00 in the morning, with some bars closing for a couple hours between 16h00 and 128h00.
House specialties often sell out early in the night.
Bars that offer breakfast open at 07h00.
Don’t forget the blackboard
In most bars, the cold pintxos are laid out on the counter.
It’s common practice to grab a plate, load it with pintxos and show the bartender your order (most pintxos are priced between €2 – €5 each.)
In the best bars pintxos are made fresh to order and are usually the best ones to have.
A few bars have a menu available in English, but mostly you will have to try your hand at deciphering Spanish from the blackboard specials.
This Googlee translate service can come in useful on your cell-phone: https://translate.google.ie/
Drink like the locals
Traditionally, pintxos are accompanied with a glass of txakoli – s sparkling, dry white wine from the region. It’s usually poured from a height to aerate the wine and create more bubbles – a spectacular sight!
It’s also popular to order a “zurrito” – a small pour of the house draft beer or a “txikito, ” a small glass of “tinto” (red wine) or “blanco” (white wine).
If you’re looking for something extra special, ask for a “crianza” red wine, which has been aged for two years with at least six months in oak.
Don’t fill up
During your bar crawl, discipline yourself to only order a couple of pintxos at each place, picking out the best specialties from each bar.
Aim to visit about 5 bars for a total of10 to 15 pintxos shared between 2 people. This makes for a full sized meal for most people's appetite.
Remember not to order too much in one place. Part of the fun is moving from one place to the other during the evening, and you can always come back to your favourite again the next day.
Some bars will offer you a plate, hoping you will be tempted to pile it high with their counter-top pintxos. Do not give in to this. You are entitled to politely decline the plate, and insist you take from the counter or order your chosen few pintxos as you please.
Take some time in-between to stroll the streets or see some of the sights nearby. This will let the food settle and make room for more.
Pintxos Etiquette
It’s not rude to use your hands at pintxos bars. Cutlery usually isn’t necessary.
The way you dispose of your napkins after eating is a true test if you’re a local or a tourist. If you’re looking to fully embrace the Basque culture, raise your napkin in the air and throw it to the ground under the bar. Don’t worry you won’t be thrown out. The more dramatic the better!
Don’t be shy
Leave your shyness at the door at pintxos bars and be prepared to wrestle with your neighbours to get to the bar or holler your order to the waiters over the bar.
Don’t take it personally if the bartenders are rude or abrupt... it’s part of the business here.
Pay at the end
Just order what you want at the bar and pay at the end. In most cases the waiters have an incredible memory and will remember what you ordered without a reminder.
Wear Comfortable Shoes
Unless you reserve a table or are eating in the restaurant section of the pintxos bar, don’t expect a seat. At most pintxos bars, it’s standing room only. At best you are lucky to get a standing room spot inside the bar. Keep the stilettos at home and trade them for comfortable flats.